Marrakesh: Chaos and Charm | Restaurants and places to see

Updated April 1, 2025

Oh, where do I start? How do I describe the city of charm and chaos, rich and poor, glam and poverty?

I’ve been to Marrakesh twice, and my journey through Morocco was a rollercoaster of experiences. It’s a city of contrasts, where the serenity of a quiet courtyard can quickly give way to the clamorous energy of a bustling souk. Marrakesh offers an unforgettable adventure. It is a place that challenges and rewards in equal measure, where every moment is an opportunity to discover something new.

My first visit to Morocco 7 years ago was so different to my recent one in 2024 and the reason could be anything from not preparing myself enough before the trip to a complete culture-shock, and now wiser and less of an overthinker me can finally say – I’ve experienced both; the negative but also most positive side of this country, let me tell you all about it!

I’ve recently came across this post on a travel forum, and I couldn’t agree more:

” Now, granted, they were there in the late 90’s and I know things have improved a lot since then.”

It improved a lot. I had a friend who was there in 1995 and was schocked at the filthiness and the hassle. After more than 20 years Morocco is much cleaner and more developed(Let just mention thay have more high-speed railways than the USA, since the USA has nothing and Morocco had recently inagurated its first high-speed railway between Tanger and Casablanca using French TGV technology).

Some hassle still exists, but that has always been the feature of many Arab countries. It’s up to the individual to learn how to deal with it, but having a personal guide will make it much easier.

” They cited unfriendly people who try to rip you off at every opportunity “

If you’re a fool you’ll be ripped off. Inform yourself of the prices and haggle.

“dirtiness”

Much cleaner than it used to be, but it ain’t Japan. If you visited 90 countries chances are that you already visited countries which are dirtier than Morocco. Morocco is a kindergarten compared to India both in terms of hassle and filthiness.

“getting sick from the food”

Peel it, boil it, cook it or forget it.

https://www.fodors.com/community/africa-and-the-middle-east/did-anyone-not-like-morocco-1673400/

Do not overthink it, it really isn’t as bad as some people say

Ok, let’s put it this way; If you’ve ever been to any of the Muslim countries before, Morocco won’t surprise you. If you’ve only ever been to pretty, aesthetically pleasing, european cities then yes, Morocco could be shocking, scary and most likely overwhelming. Morocco IS OVERWHELMING by all means.

Marrakesh is safe

Be aware of the pickpockets? Oh, come on. We all know that, right? Ever been to Paris, Milan, London or Barcelona? It’s pretty obvious you should keep your belongings close and safely hidden away where they cannot be reached, and you will be fine.

We’ve stayed in a beautiful, luxurious Riad based in one of the poorest neighborhoods, where we passed by hungry kids and dying from hunger and dehydration cats and dogs every – single – fu*king – day. It was heartbreaking. But these people were always first to help, they kept their doors open and ready to invite you for a tea. Please, do not assume all moroccans are scammers. It’s not like that at all.

Get your cash ready!

Most places in Marrakesh will only accept cash (you can pay card at most hotels, supermarkets and restaurants). I highly recommend exchanging your money in Morocco (not at the airport!) – The rates are a lot better in the city centre. They are many exchange places in the Gueliz area.

Because Moroccan Dirham can’t be taken out of Morocco, you will need to convert any cash left over at the end of your trip. Again, you can exchange dirham back into pounds at most banks, hotels and at the airport.

Souks is where you should stay mindful

The souks (markets) of Marrakech are the largest in Morocco and famous globally as some of the most exotic marketplaces to shop in the world. The most prominent souk is Jemaa el-Fnaa and as a first time visitor, I’m pretty sure at some point you’ll end up bustling through Jemaa el-Fnaa.

A few things to keep in mind when visiting Jemaa el-Fnaa:

  • Hear me out, Marrakech Souks are not snowflake-friendly, so if you get offended/upset easily – just don’t go. You’ll hear a lot of things, including catcalling and whistles (especially as a blonde, European woman).
  • Avoid women with henna, snake charmers and monkey-men. They usually approach tourists and before you know it, you’ll end up having a snake around your neck. They’re harmless and don’t bite, but once it’s on you or you take a picture with one, they’ll ask you for money.
  • Taking pictures is not illegal, but you should always ask for permission before taking photos of people, especially women and children. You may also be asked for money if you get caught recording/taking photos at Jemaa el-Fnaa.
  • You will be approached by many people trying to sell different type of things (anything from shoes to drugs, yep!) – all you have to do is say NO thanks and move on, don’t look back, don’t feel bad about it.
  • Once they know or can tell you’re a foreigner, price will increase by a lot – so you either negotiate or again – say NO, thanks and walk away.
  • If you’re planning on travelling solo, I would search any forums/apps/facebook groups for a moroccan friend. Moroccans are friendly and sightseeing with a local will be much more peaceful.

Souks are CRAZY, yes, but they’re also beautiful, colorful, and in my opinion should definitely be on your must-see list when in Morocco. You can buy pretty much anything you can imagine in the souks of Marrakech; tea pots, lanterns, spices or carpets, but if not for shopping, I’d go there just to experience the vibe.

Moroccans are kind, friendly and always happy to help

Sure, you will find some weird people in Morocco. Some will try to scam or harass you. But you will definitely meet some amazing people too. Moroccans are warm, hospitable, and welcoming.

Family Riad

We have stayed at the most beautiful Airbnb you can possibly imagine. Riad Lantau Medina is located 5-min walk away from the main square (Koutoubia). Beautifully decorated, cosy and big enough to host two 2+2 families. The host was amazing and very helpful too.

Things to see in Marrakech

Madrasa Ben Youssef

Yves Saint Laurent Museum

Day trip to Agafay Desert

We’ve booked this day trip via ”GetYourGuide” and it was one of the most amazing experiences ever. Itinerary included local argan oil cooperative tour & tea, an hour quad ride, 3 course dinner and some free time to enjoy the pool at the most stunning Agafay Desert.

Agafay:

Traditional Hammam – I highly recommend booking a SPA or Hammam treatment after a long day of sightseeing, trust me it felt like a reset button.

Food

L’Adresse Jemaa El-Fna – nothing too special in terms of food, but they had lovely Tagine and amazing rooftop bar with the views of Jemaa el-Fnaa.

Nobu Rooftop Bar – This place is a bit more posh, so if you feel like dressing up and sipping cocktails while watching dance show, then this is definitely a place for you. We’ve been there a couple of times and I really enjoyed the food, views and the show. We have booked it for my mum’s birthday and this was the most wholesome experience ever, mama cried happy tears and I was so grateful the staff made an effort to serve an amazing cake with candles and sing Happy Birthday to her.

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